Bonnie Pattern Hacks - How to make a Cowl Necked Version

Hello all!  I'm here to do what I do best, show you how to hack up your Bonnie pattern. So are you ready to give your Bonnie pattern a little twist? 

Today we'll be talking about how to add a cowl neck to the pattern. Personally I've got a bit of a soft spot for a cowl neck, since any sort of draping around the neckline is flattering. They also give a bit more neck coverage, always a plus once the temperature drops. 

For the cowl neck version I'd recommend using a knit jersey that has some drape to it.  For example, my sample is sewn in a slinky polyester jersey. Any sort of bamboo, rayon, modal or blends of these fibers would also work well. Save the stable knits like wool jersey, ponte and cotton interlock for other variations of the pattern.

You'll need to use the scoop neckline of view B for the cowl neck version. Either length of the pattern is fine. For my sample I've used view B's neckline combined with the longer shirt length of view C.

Materials needed - Bonnie pattern, trace paper, ruler (a clear one is best), pen/pencil, scissors, flexible tape measure. 

Drafting Instructions

Step 1. Select the front and back scoop neck pieces and draw in the seam allowance along the necklines and shoulders. Using a flexible tape measure, measure the back and front necklines on the seam line.

Subtract the shoulder seam allowances and you'll get the length of the cowl needed to fit in the neckline. 

Step 2. If you have a self healing cutting mat with a grid then get it out now. Using it to measure dimensions will make the drafting process very simple.  Using the cutting mat grid or a regular ruler, draw a horizontal line that is the same length as the front and back necklines combined.

Step 3. Decide how high you want the cowl to be and draw another horizontal line at that height. For example, my sample has a 6" high cowl.

Step 4. Next step is to double the height of the cowl since it will be folded in half during sewing.  In my example this makes the pattern 12" high.

Step 5. Find the halfway point on the long side of the cowl and mark it with a notch. You'll want to match this notch with a CF notch on your neckline. I usually put my grainline at this location too.

Step 6. Add seam allowance to all the sides of the rectangle and cut it out. Your cowl pattern is complete and ready to sew. 

Sewing instructions

Step 1. When cutting out the front and back Bonnie pieces cut a notch at the CF and CB on the necklines. Also cut a notch at the mid point of the cowl.

Step 2. Sew the shoulder seams together.

Step 3. Sew the CB/short seam of the cowl.

Step 4. Fold the cowl in half. If you don't like lining 3 layers up at once, then baste the long edges of the cowl together.

Step 5. Take the seam of the cowl and match it to the CB notch on the neckline. Pin in place. Then match the mid point cowl notch with the CF front notch on the neckline.

Step 6. Stitch together all three layers, easing the cowl into place between the pinned notches.

Step 7. The inside of your neckline will look like this. The drape of the cowl will hide the serged edge from view when you are wearing it.  

Step 8. Continue on with the regular sewing instructions for Bonnie, starting with gathering and then setting the sleeves.

I hope you enjoy wearing your cowl necked Bonnie as much as I do. Happy sewing!
- Heather

Bonnie Pattern Hacks - How to make a Cardigan Version

Hello all!  I'm here to do what I do best, show you how to hack up your Bonnie pattern. So are you ready to give your Bonnie pattern a little twist? 

Today we'll be talking about how to turn Bonnie into a cardigan. As a perpetually cold person I can never get enough cardigans.  It's nice to be able to whip one up quickly from a pattern that you know already fits. 

For the cardigan version I'd recommend using stable knits. For example wool jersey, ponte and cotton interlock/cottons with low stretch. My sample is sewn in a wool blend sweater knit that has very little stretch. It's similar to a wool jersey, but slightly lighter weight. You'll also want to use some interfacing on the button band. I recommend using tricot/knit interfacing.  This is interfacing has a knit base and does not change the hand of the fabric as much as woven interfacing. You can purchase this sort of interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, Emmaonesock.com, Fabric.com or search for Tricot or knit interfacing.

You'll need to use the crew neck of view A for the cardigan version. Either length of the pattern is fine. For my sample I've used view A's neckline combined with the longer shirt length of view C.

Materials needed - Bonnie pattern, trace paper, ruler (a clear one is best), pen/pencil, scissors. 

Drafting Instructions

Step 1. Trace off the front bodice piece and add seam allowance to the CF. (In my example SA is 1/4")

Step 2. To calculate the length of the button band we will need to take some measurements.  Fold the neckband in half and measure the height.  Subtract seam allowance and write down the measurement. Measure the CF of the bodice piece, subtract seam allowance at both the top and bottom, and then write down that measurement.  Repeat the neckband steps for the hem band.  Once you have all 3 measurements, add them up to get the button band length.

Step 3. Now that we have the button band length we can draft one.  On some trace paper draw a vertical line to the length just calculated.

Step 4. Decide how wide you want the button band to be and draw in the rest of the rectangle.  In my example the button band is 1.25" wide.

Step 5. Just like the neck and hem bands, the button band will be folded in half.  Double the width of the button band you just drafted.

Step 6.  Add seam allowance to all edges and a grain line to complete the draft.  The button band can now be cut out.

Optional Step - Some people may prefer the look of finishing the sleeve hems with band. Here is how you draft them.

- Decide on the width of the sleeve band, for example 2".  Add seam allowance to that amount and measure the width of the sleeve at the point where the cuff will be sewn.  Here I'm measuring 2.25" up from the hem to get the width of my 2" cuff. At that height the sleeve is a little over 8".

- Draft a rectangle 2" high and slightly smaller in width than the sleeve, about 1/4 - 3/8" depending on how much stretch your fabric has. In my example the cuff width is 7.75".  Add seam allowance to the long sides of the cuff only.  The short sides already have seam allowance added.

- When you cut the sleeves out,  shorten them by the width of the finished cuff minus the seam allowance. So for my 2" cuff with 1/4" seam allowance, I cut off 1.75" off the bottom of the sleeve.

Sewing instructions

Step 1. Interface both of the button bands

Step 2. Sew the shoulders together on the front and back pieces.

Step 3.  Since we're sewing a cardigan the neck band edges don't have to be sewn together. Put the raw edges on the CF's and ease the rest of the neckband in.

Step 4. Set the sleeves and sew up the side seams as instructed in the main directions.

Step 5. Sew on the hem band in the same manner as you did the neckband.

Step 6.  Fold the button band right sides together and sew both short ends.

Step 7. Turn the button band right side out, poke out any edges if you need to and give it a good press.

Step 8. Line up the button band on the CF. The finished edge should match to the top of the neckband and the bottom of the hem band.

Step 9. Sew the button band to the cardigan and press the seam allowance towards the body. Repeat on the other side.

Step 10. Using your regular sewing machine, sew buttonholes on the right (if your wearing it) button band. The interfacing will make the fabric stiff enough so that the fabric doesn't get sucked in your machine. You may need to guide/pull the fabric through the foot a bit. It's a good idea to try on a sample first to see how the machine reacts.

Step 11. Cut open button holes and sew buttons on the opposite band.

Throw the new cardigan on your back and stay warm and cozy. Happy Sewing

-Heather

Bonnie Pattern Hacks - Make a Tie Neck Version

Hello all!  I'm here to do what I do best, show you how to hack up your Bonnie pattern. So are you ready to give your Bonnie pattern a little twist? 

Today we'll be talking about how to modify the View A neckband into a tie neck version. By simply lengthening the neckband you can recreate this vintage look.

For the tie neck version I'd recommend using a lighter weight jersey.  For example, my sample is sewn in a soy/cotton blend. Any jersey that you'd consider to be T-shirt weight will work fine. Thicker jerseys may be difficult to turn the narrow tie area right side out.

You'll need to use the crew neckline of view A for the Tie neck version. Either length of the pattern is fine. For my sample I've used view A's body combined with the sleeves from view C.

Materials needed - Bonnie pattern, trace paper, ruler (a clear one is best), pen/pencil, scissors. 

Drafting Instructions

Step 1. Put trace paper over the view A neckband and trace the two horizontal sides and the edge with the fold.

Step 2. On the other vertical end draw notches at your selected size. 

Step 3.  Extend the neckband out another 19 inches.. You can reduce this length if you'd like a shorter tie. If the tie is too wide to fit on your fabric, then add seam allowance to the CB edge so that the tie can be cut in two pieces.

Step 4.  Since the tie was traced off the original neckband it already has seam allowance added. Add a grain line to the pattern and cut it out to finish.

Sewing instructions
Step 1. Sew the shoulders of the body together.

Step 2. If you've split the tie into two pieces sew them together at the CB.

Step 3. Fold the tie in half horizontally and sew the edges up to the notch mark on both sides.

Step 4. Turn the tie ends right side out.

Step 5.  Match the middle of the tie to the CB notch on the neckline.  Position the tie notches on either side of the CF notch on the neckline.  It's fine to leave a little space since the knot of the bow will cover it.

Step 6. Sew the necktie together with the neckline, starting and stopping at the necktie notches.

Step 7. Continue on with the regular sewing instructions for Bonnie starting with gathering and then setting the sleeves.

After you're finished, tie your Bonnie in a jaunty bow and channel your inner feisty librarian. Happy Sewing

-Heather

ANNOUNCING THE BONNIE SEW-ALONG

Announcing the official Bonnie sew-along! 

The Bonnie sew-along will start on 26th of November and finish up on the 3rd of December. 

It  will be jam packed with tips on sewing with knits, a whole heap of  really awesome pattern hacks as well as a heaps of other tutorials so you can  sew up an army of Bonnie's for yourself.

If you plan to join in then you can follow the sew-along on the Bluegingerdoll Facebook sew-along page where you can feel free to pop up your progress photos, ask questions or find answers to your questions. 
You can also check out the sew-along happenings on the usual places such as Instagram, Twitter  or the Flickr group. Simply use the hashtag #Bonnie to join in all the sew-along fun.

There may also possibly be some really rad prizes to giveaway, so keep stay tuned for that announcement in the coming days.

Good times ahead, hope you can join in.

 Abby x