ODETTE SEW-ALONG #2 - Choosing your size, fit adjustments and tracing the pattern

In the first Odette sew-along post yesterday we chatted about fabrics, supplies and tools all the things you need to get yourself on the right track to sewing up an amazing Odette dress. Today's post we will be getting into the more technical side of things and be taking a look at  choosing your size, determining if you need any fit adjustments and once we have all that sorted out we will then trace our Odette pattern's in our chosen sizes and stitch up a muslin to test the fit.

If you're just joining us you can find all the Odette sew-along posts here as well as the Facebook sew-along group. 

FINDING YOUR SIZE & FIT

First things first in finding your right size is  measuring yourself correctly. Its always a good idea to re-measure yourself again every now and then, our bodies do tend to change a little bit here and there and if you're anything like me where you do  have days of eating too much yummy stuff then its a good habit to get into (not the yummy eating part!). Simply grab your tape measure, follow the diagram below and the read the description on how to measure yourself correctly. 

Bust measurement: Measure around the fullest point of your bust, wearing whatever type of bra or undergarment you plan on wearing under your Odette dress. 
Waist measurement: Is at your natural waist. On many people this is the smallest point of your torso.

 Hip measurement: The fullest part of your hips and butt. Typically this is approximately 7″ below your natural waist, but this differs on everyone. This measurement isn't too important on the Odette dress due to the skirt being flared and skimming over the hips and butt, make measure it anyway just to be on the safe side.

You may need a hand and  have someone help you take your measurements, especially the bust,  as having your arms up and holding the tape can affect the measurement slightly.

WHAT SIZE SHOULD I SEW?

Now you have your measurements cross reference them with the sizes on the back of the envelope to determine your size. Pay close attention to the finished measurements so you can establish a much better fit when Odette is sewn up.

TRACE YOUR PATTERN PIECES

Now you've found your size grab your sewing pattern and tracing paper, cause we're gonna do some tracing! I know this is a somewhat tedious and extra task for you to do but its a good habit to get into with your patterns especially if you need to make some pattern adjustments. Even if you don't need to make any pattern adjustments, its a great way to keep your pattern a lot longer, in its original state, for future use or if you want to sew up a Odette for a friend who is a different size then you.

When tracing your pattern you can use pattern weights, basically anything heavy, i use whatever cans of food are in the pantry, it works a treat. In regards to paper you can use to trace your pattern pieces, i use brown pattern  tracing paper, which is transparent enough but also sturdy as well. You can use whatever paper you like, as long as it is transparent, baking paper from the kitchen works just as well as the expensive stuff.

OK back to sizes again for a little bit.  Once you're ready to trace your pattern if you found you are in between sizes that's OK, all  you will need to do is overlap into different sizes at the areas which differ i.e bust, waist hips when tracing your pattern. For example if you take note of my sizes in the pic below  i'm a size 12 in the bust and waist and size 10 at the waist, so i do have to trace in between sizes. So when tracing i would start with the bust ( size 12) and then trace in to the waist ( size 10) and then back out to the hips at size 12.

It's also important to trace each pattern piece as accurately as you can, this is where,  if you have some curved rulers they will come in handy.   Also make sure to copy down all the important info and pattern markings, and notches onto your traced pattern. It is also a good idea to label each pattern piece, and the size you are using, and any instructions they have i.e cut on the fold, grain lines etc Once you have done with all the tracing, cut out your pattern pieces.

MAKING A MUSLIN AND STITCHING IT UP

Sewing up a muslin is always a good idea especially when trying to obtain that perfect fit as well nutting out any issues before you cut into your lovely fabric.
Even if your measurements are falling into the same size group, or very close to, or you're swinging wildly between sizes then sewing up a muslin is highly recommended.

There are two types of muslin's you can make: A simple calico muslin ( made in calico fabric) and a wearable muslin(made in cheap fabric which you can wear outside in public). For the Odette i recommend making a muslin for the bodice only, not the entire dress unless you want to. Due to Odette being a 'Fit and Flare' dress the bodice is mainly where you will find 
( if any) fit adjustments that need to be made. You also want to stitch the sleeves up just to check them as well if you're sewing up View B & C.

Once you have cut out your muslin fabric, depending on what type of muslin you are making ( simple calico or wearable)  simply just follow the below steps:

Simple Calico Muslin
Don't finishing this muslin off nice and neat, just baste it all together.

* Sew the darts, front and back dress together etc

* Sew the shoulder and bodice side seams.

Wearable Muslin

* Stitch as the entire  dress normally and  as per the instructions. 
This is basically a 'real' dress but sewn up in a cheap fabric.

DETERMINE ANY PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS

Now you can try on your Odette muslin and ask yourself a few questions about the muslin's fit, so you can determine if you have cut out the right size and if any fit adjustments are needed:

 Is it comfortable?

Does the bodice fit correctly across the bust? No pulling or too loose?
Did some seams pop when i put it on?

Is the bodice  waist nicely  fitted and  comfortable? Again no pulling or too loose?

Is the dress bodice the right length? Too short or too long?
Is the bodice comfortable across my back? Not too tight or loose?

If you have found some funny business going on with the bust fit, too big or small, pulling here and there or just haven't even started because you know you have to adjust the bust, then  stay tuned tomorrow's sew-along post, Heather will show you how to complete an FBA & SBA.

There is also a lot of information out there on pattern adjustments and fitting issues if you're new to this whole pattern adjustment garb or just need some extra help with it all, then ask a question on the Facebook sew-along group, upload a photo and show us what is happening and Heather and i will try out best to help you out.

Hope you enjoyed this sew-along post!

See you tomorrow

Abby
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