Thursday, 1 August 2013


Hello again fine sew-along folks! Today's sew-along post will be more focused on Dress 2 of the Billie Jean sewing pattern, which is the full gathered skirt.

Here is a list of all the previous sew-along posts, in case you need to catch up or just a refresher:

#1 - Getting started
#2 -  Full Bust Adjustment
#3 - Assemble the bodice
#4 - Assemble the skirts
#5 - Dress 1 - Bodice to skirt
#6 - Attach the lining

Let's begin!

Step 1 - Dress 2 - Side seams & attach the Bodice shell to the skirt

Open the bodice lining away from the bodice shell. Match the bodice lining and bodice shell rights sides  together separately. Pin in place at side seams. Make sure to align all waist and armhole seams.

Stitch both of the  bodice shell and bodice lining side seams together in one continuous stitch.

Finish both  the bodice shell and bodice lining side seams, again in one continuous line.

 Continue to leave the bodice lining still pulled away from the bodice shell, but for the moment below is  a quick look at the bodice side  seams and what they should look like,  on the outside and inside of the bodice.

Step 2 - Attach the  bodice to the skirt

Right sides together pin the bodice shell to the skirt at the waistline. Again making sure to match  side seams etc.

Stitch the bodice and skirt together at the waistline, starting from the centre back skirt seam. When stitching be careful not to catch any of the skirt gathers as you go. My advice is to stitch slowly across the gathers and hold the skirt a little bit taunt as you stitch.
With finishing the waistline seam, I chose to finish my waistline seam with the over locker, just to give it a little bit more hold due to the weight and amount of gathers in my skirt, but finishing the waistline seam in anyway you like or can is fine. On the inside of the dress, press the waistline seam up towards the bodice.

On the right side of the dress, very lightly press the skirt, by following the  direction  of the skirt gathers up towards the waistline. Don't press the iron down too hard,basically just use the steam from the iron to press the skirt by hovering the iron just above the skirt gathers -  pressing down too hard with the iron will flatten the skirt gathers and they will become limp.

Here is what the finished waistline seam should look like, after  attaching the bodice to the skirt.

Remember at this stage, the bodice lining will still be hanging freely - not yet attached to the waistline, we will be getting to stitching this down very soon.

That's all for today's sew-along post!

Happy sewing!


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