Thursday, 12 June 2014

Tutorial: How to Sew the Betsy Pleated Kick Pleat

Hello Bluegingerdolls.  For the new pattern releases, Ava and Betsy, we're doing something a little different than we have in the past. We feel that the majority of the sewing needed for both patterns is on the easy side. So instead of hosting a full fledged sewalong, we'll be posting tutorials on how to complete the tricky bits.

Today I'll be showing you how to sew the pleated kick pleat on View C of Betsy. We're going to take it step by step and clear up any confusion you might have about the process. Those of you already familiar with sewing regular kick pleats will find that the steps are very similar. So let's get started on sewing some sexy kick pleats!

Prior to these steps I have finished the edges of my skirt, sewn all the darts and sewn/pressed the skirt side seams. If you want to follow along on the written directions, grab page 3 and locate "View C - Centre Back Seam & Accordion Pleat."

Step 1 - Transfer the marking for the top of the vent onto your skirt pieces. Pin the skirt pieces together along the CB.

Step 2 - Sew a seam from the bottom of the zipper placement, down to the vent marking.

Step 3 - Using a ruler, draw a chalk line from the vent marking, down to hem of the skirt. Place a few pins across the line to keep both skirt pieces lined up.

Step 4 - Set your machine to a basting stitch and baste the length of the chalk line.

Step 5 - Press open both the CB seam and the vent pieces.

Step 6 - Take one side of the vent and fold it like an accordion, stacking the folds on top of each other.

 Repeat with the other side of the vent.
Press the pleats to set the edge creases well. When you unfold the vent it should look something like this.

Step 7 - Unfold both sides of the vent and match up the CB seam of the vent area.  Stitch this seam together with a regular stitch length.

Step 8 - Refold the pleats on their creases and press open the vent CB seam.

Step 9 - Turn the skirt over to the right side and feel for the top edges of the pleats. Draw a chalk line about 1/4" down from the pleat edge on either side of the CB seam.

Place a few pins in that location to keep the top of the pleats stacked.

Step 10 - On the right side of the skirt, stitch the top of the pleats down along the chalk line.

Check the backside of the skirt to make sure all the edges of the pleats were caught in your topstitching.

Step 11 - Remove the basting added in Step 4, which is keeping the kick vent closed.

Once the basting has been cleaned up, then step back and admire your pleats.  The the kick pleat has been completed and you can move to the next step of hemming your skirt.
Happy Sewing!

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