Friday, 21 February 2014

Peggy Pegged

Hello there Gingerdolls, Heather here. Today I have a fun little pattern variation for you, it's Peggy Pegged.

So what exactly do I mean by that?  Well instead of using the A-line shape Peggy is drafted with, I changed the side seam shape to that of a pencil skirt.  The waistband and pocket details remain the same, but the skirt gets a more figure hugging shape. My version was sewn in a light weight stretch denim which allowed me to skip any need for a vent in the back.

To do this hack I used the Billie Jean pencil skirt pattern as a guide.  Other pencil skirt patterns can be used, you'll just have to eyeball how to line up the pieces more.  Now on to the nitty, gitty of cutting up your pattern. Grab those scissors, a pencil and your Peggy and Billie Jean patterns and we'll get cooking.

How to convert Peggy to a pencil skirt shape.
1. We'll start with the Back Skirt since the change is rather simple. First line the Billie Jean skirt on top of Peggy so that the top side seam points are touching and so that the CB lines are parallel.

2. Trace the side seam line of Billie Jean onto Peggy.

 3. Cut off the excess paper and your back skirt alteration is finished.

4. Now we will alter the Front Skirt.  First you will want to fold the pleat closed, as if you were sewing it, and pin it there.

5. Just like on the back, you'll want to line the Billie Jean skirt up with Peggy so that the top side seam points are touching and so that the CF lines are parallel. With the pleat there might be a little fudging with the CF's matching Just do your best.

6. Trace the Billie Jean Side seam onto Peggy and cut the excess paper off. Now that both side seams have been adjusted, place the front and back skirt patterns on top of each other and check that both side seams are the same length. Add or subtract to the side seams to make them match if they don't.

7. You'll need to adjust the pocket facings and bags for the new side seam shape. Let's start with the Pocket Facing Piece.  Lay it on top of the Front Skirt, matching it up with the straight edge of the pocket.

8. Trace the new side seam off the Front Skirt and trim the Pocket Facing.

9.  Now you'll use the Pocket facing to alter the pocket bag.  Since the pocket bag is smaller to create the gapping pocket feature you'll need to use the notch on the bottom of the bag to line them up.  Also match the top side seam point.

10. Again trace the new side seam onto the pocket bag and cut it off.  When the two pieces are adjusted they should still have a size difference to keep the gapping pocket feature. It should look something like this.

*Optional Alteration*  To exactly copy my Peggy you'll need to shorten the skirt by 4 inches.  Use the CF/CB as your guide to square a line across the pattern and cut off the extra length. My skirt has a 1 1/4" hem making the final length 22".

To sew up just follow the regular directions.  Your pocket sides will be a bit fiddly to seam at this width, but the finished skirt will look great.

P.S. I just have to crow a bit because this is my first lapped zipper!  I used the tutorial on the blog and am pretty pleased with the end result. Hooray for learning new sewing techniques!


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